Rust-Oleum 203373 Professional Floor Coating Kit, Silver Gray Brand: Rustoleum ( Read customer review and Compare Price for our Porducts) |
Rust-Oleum 203373 Professional Floor Coating Kit, Silver Gray Review
Rust-Oleum 203373 Professional Floor Coating Kit, Silver Gray Feature
- 30 electric cooktop with downdraft : Rust-Oleum 203373 Professional Floor Coating Kit, Silver Gray Check Product Rating
Rust-Oleum 203373 Professional Floor Coating Kit, Silver Gray Overviews
A tough, 2 component coating forms a bond with the surface that is stronger than concrete. Withstands splash and spillage of mild acid, gasoline, brake fluid, oil, and other automotive chemicals. Will not soften or peel when exposed to extended water immersion. Provides excellent wear, impact, and abrasion resistance from heavy foot and vehicle traffic. Helps prevent concrete chipping, cracking, and dusting. Maintains a stronger bond with the surface than 1 component products even under hot tires. Use in warehouses, garages, factories, and other heavy traffic indoor floors. Also excellent for steel, metal, masonry, or previously painted surfaces. Kit includes 2 full gallon (1 gallon part A activator and 1 gallon part B base) and complete instruction sheet (English and Spanish). 2 gallon kit covers approximately 350 to 400 sq. ft. on smooth surface depending on porosity of the surface. Available in stock: Silver gray semi gloss.
30 electric cooktop with downdraft : Rust-Oleum 203373 Professional Floor Coating Kit, Silver Gray >Compare Prices<
Rust-Oleum 203373 Professional Floor Coating Kit, Silver Gray "30 electric cooktop with downdraft"
- 4 inch drawer pulls
- rubbed bronze cabinet pulls
- drawer pulls bronze
- 3 inch drawer pulls
- 4 inch drawer pull
- 4 inch handles
- 3 3 4 drawer pulls
- drawer pulls 3 inch
- bronze drawer pull
- wall mounted sink faucet
Customer Reviews
First, shame on Amazon! PA distro center knowingly sent a damaged case of floor coating. How do I know it wasn't damaged in transit you say? Because the exterior shipping box was 100% in-tact but inside the items box was wrapped in 4 heavy clear plastic bags and knotted. It seems that the can of grey coating (not the activator) was opened/damaged in storage and rather than toss the product the shipping monkeys elected to just wrap it up and fullfill the order. Well, it didn't leak out of the plastic bags but the product was ruined and I had to wait another 4 days for a replacement to ship. The only saving grace is Amazon is good about replacements and I've never been hassled.On to the product. These Rust-Oleum Pro Floor coatings are the High-end of the Low-end. They are solvent based products whereas you can probably only get water based versions at your local big box store depending on your states regulations. The box advertises coverage at 250 sq ft and my single garage came in right around 240 sq ft. There was plenty to do the floor. I was worried about not having enough at first but my fears were unfounded in the end.No problem spreading the coating. Came with plenty of decorative chips. The concrete flooring I started with was approx 60 yrs old. 60 years of dirt, grime, grease, oil, damage and 2 coats of paint. Prep is always the key with ANY kind of coating. There are many products advertised, methods recommended, etc, here's what I did. Emptied out the garage, swept out the area, scrubbed down with stiff bristle brush and Purple Power cleaner, power washed with steam/hot water pressure washer (this removed all the floor paint that I didn't realize was there because it was so dirty), scrubbed down with TSP (as a test), scrubbed down again with Purple Power, etched the concrete with HCL (I couldn't get Muratic acid) and let it dry. Each step of this process was followed with several washing of clean water to ensure any contaminates were removed. Then I let the concrete dry for 3 days. This whole process occured over two weeks because of the bad product being shipped.From there it was essentially just following the directions and laying the product down. I did one extra step. After the base coat had been down for 24hrs I put down the Rust-Oleum Pro Clear Coating product down. Goes down just like the base coat, no prep necessary if it's within 48hrs of the base going down. I left out the anti-slip grit included as I feel the decorative chips give enough grip because the clear coat isn't so thick that you end with a perfectly smooth surface. Let dry for 24 hrs before I started moving equipment back into the garage. After 72 hrs was able to park on it but didn't for about 1 week because of other issues.End Results: I'm in it for about $260 total between the base, clear and some supplies I didn't already have, product has been down for 3 summer months now and I'd do it again. So far no hot tire pickup, it has cut down on the dust and dirt in the garage tremendously, can walk out there without shoes on with no problem and is easy clean up. Haven't done any heavy garage work yet this summer as I haven't had time but I've dropped hammers and heavy metal parts with no significant damage to the coating. If you get down to the clear you can find a scratch where it hit but you are unable to discern that scratch/rub mark at any distance over 6". Extended long term performance has yet to be seen but no issues with the East Coast heat nor extended amounts and weeks of rain. If I had a double car garage I would be seriously looking at other brands of products. It would cost approximately $400 to use Rust-Oleum (2xbase and clear coat kits) whereas you could step into the mid-tier brands with better solids %'s for anywhere from $0-$100 more.****Update Sept 2010, 1 year of use****Still no complaints. Never got any hot tire pickup, no lifting from moisture, nothing. I'd do it all again.
Excellent coverage; covered well more than the stated minimum. You should plan on mixing less than all of the product if you have a small garage; you can't save it for later once it's mixed. Covered very well; only one thick coat with the supplied multi-colored flakes completely covered my bare concrete floor. I'd highly recommend that you also use the matching Rustoleum Premium clear coating, especially if you use the flakes. If all you want is one solid color then two coats and no clear would probably be fine and durable. I used all of the supplied flakes (which is supposed to be enough for a two car garage) in my one car garage and it looked just right. I'd recommend getting extra flakes/chips if you are doing a two car garage unless you like it very lightly flaked (in which case you'd probably have difficulty getting a very even light coverage of flakes). Went down very easy and allowed plenty of working time. Easy to follow and complete instructions were provided.
Applied the professional epoxy shield in my 3 car garage 3 weeks ago. So far so good. Only mild complaint is that the product cured a bit more dull in some spots more than others. Likely due to the uneven finish of the concrete and not getting exactly the same thickness in rolling it on. Used the flakes and they help blend the different glosses. So far no hot tire lifting anywhere. Already have received some nice comments from the neighbors.
I have had great luck with this product. 30x40 shop and 3 car garage both painted with this. Dragged jack stands across it,welded over it,left tranny fluid on it for months at a time. The only way it comes up is when concrete comes with it!
i by no means am a professional at doing this stuff, but followed video instructions on youtube and the dvd provided, plus i read over and made sure i knew what i was doing before i did anything.prepping took quite a while, but eventually my concrete was completely clean, etched, and dried. i bought the 2.5 garage kit and proceeded to do the work. everything went well until i ran out of epoxy. this is probably because i applied it to the edges of the garage which includes the foundation that comes out of the wall. as the time trickled down to the last 10 minutes or so, the epoxy became very thick and hard to work with, but i managed. i ran out after using the 2 gallons that came in the kit, so i headed over to lowe's to get a 1 car garage kit.when i got back, the temperature increased to about 69-70 degrees and i started the job again..i noticed that i missed a little spot on the previous job due to the concrete being porous and soaking up more epoxy than expected. i covered it up with 2 strokes of the roller. it was a little darker than the surrounding area, but i thought it was like that because it was still wet.48 hours after, i walked into my garage. all was dry except for the part that i went over again. i called customer service and the first guy that helped me said it will never dry. i would have to wipe it off using a wet rag and fresh warm water until all is gone, then let dry, then sand, then wipe clean with rag, then apply another coat...omg...that means i am gonna have to buy another box. yikes.called customer service to get a second opinion...i got the same answer, but this time, i was offered a replacement as long as i provided pictures as evidence of what happened and receipts, etc. i have yet to do this, but here are some things i was told.if you found out a part of epoxy didn't cover the concrete, you need to sand it down with 60 grit sandpaper...rough it up, clean it off, then apply another coat...suggestion: when you buy the next kit, divide it up in 2 or 3 parts proportionally...this will help in case you need another set for touchup purposes...as long as you sand it and clean it, the epoxy will hold. i hope my review kinda helps...we will see what happens when i attempt this...besides this problem though, the product is excellent..customer service is excellent and provided all the answers possible. be aware they are on eastern time so make adjustments if you have to call them.
This is a great product, but I don't care how much of a wet edge you try to maintain, you're going to have a visible seam where you overlap. My suggestion would be minimize the overlap as much as possible. This product goes down easy and very smooth. I used 4 kits on a 1300 sq. ft. garage and had enough left to do another 200' or so. Each kit comes with 1 bag of chips which is plenty if you just want to do a light or medium broadcast. Anything heavier and you'll need some more chips. Chips will not completely settle into the epoxy so your surface will be rough to the touch. If you think you want to do two coats ensure you buy enough up front because if it's not applied with a few days you'll have to scuff sand the surface. Personally, I thought one coat was more that sufficient, especially since I planned on putting down a clearcoat too. I know this is now a review for the clearcoat, but if you decide to use one it will help seal in the chips. It is also very glossy and will show any and all footprints or tire tracks that cross the surface. I also suggest that you do this at temperatures well above the recommended minimum temperature to help the product flow. Both products produce strong odors and I highly recommend the use of a quality respirtator (not a dust mask!). Also, you should know that the clearcoat is not intended to be used in areas that exposed to sunlight because it warns you on the instruction sheet that it will yellow. Mine is applied over tan, so if it does yellow I'm hoping it will not be as visible as it may be on the gray. Lastly, I'll just recommend that you prep the floor well! I used muriatic acid to etch the floor and it worked very well! Much better than some of the "clean and etch" products out there! Good luck!
I used two coats of Rust Oleum Professional floor coating and finished with the Rust Oleum clear coat. I had 750 sq ft 3-car garage. I used two kits for each coat to obtain the coverage specified.I had to sand the sheen from an existing paint coat with vibrating floor plate sander to prepare the surface to receive the epoxy coat. I also used a liquid sandpaper to finish preparing the surface. In addition I used a grease remover to remove oil from the floor.After mixing the kit, my wife cut in the edges while I rolled the epoxy on with an 18" roller. Since I used two coats, I did not apply the decorative chips until the second coat. I applied the second coat in a 4'x 4' area at a time and my wife applied the chips. It took about 1 hour to apply each 2 gallon kit.The only quality problems were minimizing the roller overlap marks and applying the clear coat in such a way as to minimize the missed spots in clear coat.The surface turned out beauifully. My wife is well pleased. I waitd 5 days before driving on the surface.
I painted my floor 2 days ago. It went down the way I expected. I have a good amount of salt pits in my garage and didn't have the patients to use a skim coat of filler before painting so I was a little pressed for the amount of paint it took. I did not use the anti-slip granule because I work on my cars a fair amount and wanted to be able to slide around on my back. The floor is pretty slick without them. I'll see how the winter goes, but I wouldn't be surprised if I need to re-coat it in the spring to add the anti-slip.
First of all there is Rust-Oleum Water Based Floor Epoxy and there is Rust-Oleum Solvent Based Floor Epoxy. Many people seem to think both products are the same. There not. I followed the directions to a T and had excellent results. I used two of the solvent based kits for a large two car garage. I put it on thick as possible but yet thin enough so I wouldn't run out of product. Time was a factor. The product started to thicken up towards the end, which scared me a little. Next time, I would defiantly have a helper to trim edges and to roll it on the floor. I used small bathroom sized Dixie cups to measure out the flakes, so I would get even amounts across the entire floor. That worked well. I feel that the finished product is as good as the finishes found on auto dealership service department floors. It all depends on how well you prep the floors and mix and apply the product.
I've had it down for over five years now and it's still holding strong no peeling cracking etc and I do all of my own motorcycle and vehicle work in my garage. I did not do the clear coat, but I HIGHLY recommend it. The key is in the preparation. You MUST clean all oil spots etc and then acid etch. I Love this product
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