  | Rust-Oleum 203006 Garage Floor Kit, Tan By Rustoleum Best price Rust-Oleum 203006 Garage Floor Kit, Tan. With Special Pomotions ( Read customer review and compare price for this product) | $107.92 |
Rust-Oleum 203006 Garage Floor Kit, Tan Review
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Rust-Oleum 203006 Garage Floor Kit, Tan Overviews
EPOXY SHIELD GARAGE FLOOR COATING KIT - 2 part water base epoxy. Easy to use & apply. Long lasting results. No peel gaurantee. Not hot tire pick-up. Waterproof sealer. Great for basements & more. Covers 250 sq. ft. Contains 2 part epoxy floor system, concrete etch, decorative color chips, stir stick, instruction sheet & DVD.
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Rust-Oleum 203006 Garage Floor Kit, Tan Feature
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Rust-Oleum 203006 Garage Floor Kit, Tan Reviews
The product is excellent but to put things in perspective:Disclosure: I am a professional, non-union painter for over 10 years. I currently paint for hospitals and clinics in the Twin Cities metro area.I work with Epoxy paint frequently painting bathroom and operating rooms from various manufacturers (Sherwin Williams, Dutch Boy, etc.)Largely I have found Epoxy paints to be consistent across all brands, no better, no worse. 99% of the time when I see epoxy products fail it has little if anything to do with the product itself, but rather the surface preparation.Things to understand:Drying Time is not the same a Cure time. This is true for latex paints as well as Epoxy, Enamels, etc.Epoxy products can be dry in as few as 30 minutes to the touch. This has nothing to do with the product curing. Epoxy paints on floors can take as many as 30 days to full cure. Yes 30 days. I just finished last evening doing my own floor with this product (Ice Blue was the tint I went with). While it is dry to the touch after 6 hours for foot traffic It needs at least 8 hours. Based on the humidity in the house (I have the air running) it will be ready for furniture in another 12 hours roughly PROVIDED you have pads underneath (felt is common). For direct hard surface contact this product, like most epoxy products will need 4-7 days depending on humidity. Peeling is normally the result of dust residue or a weak, existing, surface treatment or contaminate.DO NOT RELY ON MOPPING ALONE. You need to wash any surface (wall or otherwise) before applying paints, even epoxy. I suggest using your carpet shampooer if it has a hard floor attachment. If not, mop one with a solution of Simple Green and water then mop 2 more times with plain water changing out the water frequently. Another option is to rinse with a wet-vac and a pitcher of warm water, Use an attachment with bristles. Vertical surfaces do not have as much residue and a simple bucket of warm water and a sponge will do just fine. LET IT DRY OVERNIGHT. It may look dry, and even feel dry but that is at the surface only. Concrete is like a sponge with water and it takes longer to dry then you may realize.When applying the product and rolling to reduce the lap mark appearances criss cross and be a bit chaotic with your rolling pattern. The flecks distract the eye by adding 'noise' to the visual. The same technique is used when rolling paint on walls and floors. Your eye picks up on consistent edges and lines. A common term is to feather your edges but in reality you want to feather the whole thing in that sense. That way the lap marks are chaotic enough that, combined with the flecks, are lost in the noise. As a painter you will always notice the lines but in about a week you'll forget where they are and never notice them, your guests will likely never notice them at all. A second coat may reduce\eliminate lap marks but you'll need to wait at least 72 hours between coats. The first product needs to be cured (not just dry) before apply a second coat or you risk peeling. Again mop the surface if you plan on a second coat.Not all the flecks will adhere to the surface. Remember to sweep then vacuum or your socks will be decorated.If you need to place furniture sooner then later I would suggest using cardboard coasters for the first few days (4 minimum) then remove them from the lighter objects on day 5, heavy objects on day 7. Often I suggest people use area rugs under heavy objects not only for decorative purposes but also to act as a coaster for heavy objects. Cork board bought at a store can be cut with a scissors many times for custom coasters.In summary while not all Epoxy products are created equally most have similar performance. This one is excellent not so much from a performance standpoint (they all work great) but the color options, fleck colors, price point, and low odor is very nice. I've worked with some brands of Epoxy that even in an OR (Operating Room) with forced air was so nauseating that I had to wear a respirator (which is a must in just about every circumstance except for large areas) and this product in a 250'ish square foot family room was hardly noticeable, even compared to normal latex products.It's a safe buy BUT you must be diligent in your preparation and understand DRY is not the same as CURED.As far as I can tell the surface cures first then progresses down to the point of contact. Even if the top surface is cured the bottom may not be and thus may peel (like pudding with that leathery surface but gooey underneath.)
I found this link because I wanted to forward it to a friend who will be doing his garage soon. I decided to read the reviews to see what others thought of the product. I did my garage 3 years ago and am very happy with the results. My garage has had no peeling of any kind, and even tolerates my welding sparks very well. Personally, I found it to be an excellent product, and the cost per square foot was very economical compared to the others I researched first. Here is what I learned about applying this product...first, READ the directions! Preparation of the floor is about 80 percent of this job! Also, the directions stated to apply it when the surface was above a certain number of degrees. Keep in mind that is the SURFACE temperature, not the AIR temperature. Even though its 70 degrees in March or April, it doesnt mean that the ground temperature has warmed the floor to the reccommended temperature! Personally, I did mine in August and had great results with the adhesion. The one problem I encountered was that, in hindsight, I probably put my paint on too thick. This caused the paint to take nearly 10 days (on muggy, slow drying August days) to dry properly. This is waaaaay longer then I expected it to take. Also, I learned that if you apply the product too thick, you will get the roller overlap marks between sections that someone else commented on. My experience is that the paint will NOT "blend together" as it dries like paint on a bedroom wall does. It WILL leave overlap marks! Try to keep this in mind when doing the floor. If you keep these comments in mind, I think you will find that this is about as good as it gets with an epoxy floor coating. I have found NOTHING to lift up this floor in ANY section of the garage. Even spilled gasoline and kerosene had NO effect whatsoever. I can't emphasize enough, however, that floor preparation is key to having the long-lasting effect that you desire. Put the extra time in now, and you won't have problems later. I hope my experience with this product helps all who use it! Good luck!
I just signed in to place an order for Epoxy Sheild to find that it was coming up with a one star rating. As a Sealant and Coating formulator for the last 35 years I could not believe the reviews. This is one of the best coatings that I have seen. I have a 1,200 sq ft garage, live off of a gravel road with 2 SUV's. The coating has been down for three years and the abrassion damage and wear is minimal. I would have been happy with failure at two years. Before I used it I had a contractor quote the job at 4.50 a sq ft. Due the math, it is a great product.
One of my coworkers purchased the product and did an application, his turned out so well I thought what the heck, lets do one also.So off to HD to purchase the product. Well packaged, contained excellent directions.My son and I prepped the floor. (Swept, and power washed).Material went down exactly as expected. My coverage was exact as suggested. I knew I wanted a bit more of the chips, and bought some while I was there. Glad of it. We almost ran short. (again, I knew i wanted a more heavy quantity.) I would suggest get more chips. To run low at the end would be bad as by the time you get more at the store it will be too late to apply.Total work time, including floor prep, and material application for one kit (1/2 my garage) was about a hour. This does not include floor dry time or material set up time between mix and application.The floor turned out Great. No roller marks at all.HIGHLY RECOMMEND THE PRODUCT. Even more highly recommend you read the directions and follow them.
I used this product 4 years ago in my garage and it still looks as good as the day I painted it with no lifting. If your floor gets alot of sun it will yellow a bit over time. I am a union painter so this project was a bit easier for me. Any homeowner can do this. Please prep the floor right! Clean,acid etch,rinse,clean,rinse and neutralize with baking soda. I cleaned mine and let it dry for 2 days,painted the floor and let it dry for 2 days,then used the clearcoat and let it dry for 3 days before using it like a garage again. Just google any questions you have on this product. Done right your floor finish will last very long! I am getting ready to do a 3 car garage with this product. I am charging this customer $450 labor. Don't let anyone charge you much more cuz it's only about 10 hours work for a 3 car garage.
I believe the harsh reviews this product has received stem from poor application. If you apply the product correctly, it shouldn't go on very thick. A thin coat provides better curing and better protection, as well as the coverage stated by Rustoleum. I assisted a neighbor in applying this product and it looks great. Both of us were first timers to epoxy flooring, however I have some experience with stains and paints. If you are not a Do-It-Yourselfer who usually has good results with your projects, you may want to look up a pro. If you take your time, do your research and apply it correctly, it's a great product.
Yea I have to agree that some of the reviews are due to improper installation. I did mine as instructed, and as I only had 1 kit and a 2 car garage, I planned ahead and knew that only 1/2 would be done. I did the surface prep as instructed all time guide lines were followed. And had plenty to do the job. I have got nothing but complements. Cant wait to get the other half done!
I am a REPEAT USER of this product. My first application was at our previous home. I can attest to the quality of the product by the fact that even though it went over a HUGE oil-spot and got nothing but hard, hard use over the next 6 years, it never failed me once. I parked on it, dropped tools on it, hammered on it, and spilled almost anything you can think of on it---and it passed with flying colors.But to be fair, I spent a long time on the prep---weeks, in fact, getting as much of the oil spot out of the concrete as I could...I patched all the chips and cracks, and even the expansion joints with flexible filler. And when the time came, I applied the coating half-a-garage at a time, following the directions. Those directions were fairly straightforward, and the coverage was about what I expected. I had an average '2-car garage', built in 1995...Which means you could conceivably park 2 vehicles in it, if one was a motorcycle and the other was a Mini-Cooper. Well...You could park 2 average cars, but you'd spend your time patching bodywork and painting Garage walls....Fast forward a few years. We moved to another, larger house last year, and I set about doing the garage floor again. The house was like-new, but no proper prep could be done before sale as a residence...Which meant the garage was used for storage, and the floor of it was covered with paint drops, drywall mud, loose concrete, and other things. PREP, PREP, PREP. The floor was in much better shape than my previous house's, having never been parked on/oil spotted/etc. Once again, being a three-car garage...I prepped half of it at a time, cleaned the stuff off, filled the chips and expansion joints...And bought a 2-car kit for each half, since I wanted to make sure I had enough product. Something as labor-intensive as epoxy-coating your garage floor is NOT something you want to skimp on. Once again, I followed the directions, had some left over (but not a LOT) and was patient before I moved things like industrial shelving and vehicles back onto the surface....And once again, it's doing fine.I spent about 3 weeks on the project, in total...A few days prepping, A couple of hours applying, and a good bit of time waiting for either water or Epoxy to dry, depending upon the stage of the project.The moral of our story? If you aren't detail-oriented, if you're in a hurry, can't be bothered with following directions to a 'T'... Or if you simply can't wait to have your floor done, either skip it altogether or pay someone qualified to do it for you. Works great if you have time and patience to prep, apply, and wait for proper curing...Works bad if you don't.
I purchased a new home about 1 year ago and decided to place an epoxy on the garage floor. The floor had very small oil stains and was in great shape. I followed the directions as provided on the CD and also within the written instructions. It took me about 2 days worth of scrubbing, cleaning the surface to ensure the best possible finish. I also carefully followed the directions related to the mixing and time frame in which to apply the epoxy on the surface. The result was that almost every section (applied 4 x 4 foot sections) had a different color to it. No stains (from the previous oil) was evident. It is unclear why this is the case but other individuals have had the same issues with this product. The instructions did not mention this possible problem nor explain how to avoid it. For this purpose I would recommend another product or have it done professionally.
I just completed my garage floor, I have a two stall garage. I guess I put it down too thick(I wanted good coverage) so I actually had to go out and buy another gallon (originally bought the 2.5 garage floor kit). I bought the kit in tan and when I went back for another gallon, the box said tan but come to find out it was a tan that could be tinted and now my floor is two-toned tan. Not too happy! So there are actually two tans, how would I know? Unless I paint lightly over the tan tint with the tan, my floor will always be two-toned! Other than that, the stuff is great!
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Best Rust-Oleum 203006 Garage Floor Kit, Tan
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